This RM-005* is the first automatic watch to be released by Richard Mille, and distils the disruptive, playful, and innovative personality of the brand. On the wrist, it’s a wonderful reminder that Richard Mille pieces offer almost a unique sense of wearability.

An excellent example of the early 00s period, which championed more casual luxury, Richard Mille represents a move away from classic design and traditional watchmaking into a more exciting and modern take on watches. The RM-005 is one of the earlier pieces produced by the brand, and captures this spirit exactly, distilling the essence of Richard Mille and turning it into an unconventional piece.

For those who purely associate Mille’s watches with extravagance, it can be easy to forget how innovative his pieces were in the early days – not only in terms of the materials, but the very concept of the watches themselves. This piece is a welcome reminder of what made the early watches so interesting and different.

The titanium, tonneau-shaped case on this RM-005 is a distinguishing characteristic of the Richard Mille brand, which is complemented by a visually rich dial. Titanium is extremely light, allowing the watch to sit very comfortably on the wrist. Taking a year of research and development, the sandwich-style construction of the Richard Mille tonneau case comprises three parts: a centre section, and front and back bezels.

The self-winding Calibre RM-005, developed by Vaucher SA, is skeletonised like all references from Richard Mille, with the baseplate and bridges produced using Grade 5 titanium. With a variable position rotor exclusive to the brand, the winding of the mainspring can be adapted to most effectively suit the user’s level of activity. Indeed, the winding speed can be increased for those with reduced arm and hand movements or slowed down for those taking part in high-activity sports.

Taking a closer look at the dial, we see that it is open-worked, giving a glimpse into the movement that powers the watch. The numbers are printed in white, with a geometric style that gives the impression of an optical illusion, floating just above the dial. Meanwhile, at 7 o’clock, there is a date dial highlighted in white, an unconventional placement, but one that speaks to the playful, disruptive nature of the brand. The layered effect of the various sapphire plates, skeletonised parts and movement components, renders the RM-005 visually complex, much like the engine bay of Formula One cars, which served as inspiration.

Closer look

This Richard Mille is in excellent condition overall, with only a few superficial marks throughout consistent with very light wear over time. The watch was serviced by Richard Mille London in 2017, at which time the movement was fully revised, the bezel was refurbished and the centre case replaced due to thread damage. The accompanying service booklet was stamped By Richard Mille London at the time and the full works documented.

The watch comes with a two-year mechanical warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.